Himlung Himal Expedition

The best time to climb Himlung Himal (7,126 meters) is during the autumn and spring seasons, when weather conditions in the Himalayas are most stable and favorable for high-altitude expeditions. Among these, autumn (mid-September to early November) is widely considered the ideal season. Post-monsoon skies are typically clear, the weather is stable, and the snow on the mountain is well-settled, making for safer climbing conditions.

Visibility is excellent during this period, offering spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding peaks, including Manaslu and Annapurna ranges. The temperatures are cold, especially at higher camps, but manageable with proper gear. October, in particular, is the most popular month for summit attempts due to its optimal balance of weather and safety.

The spring season (mid-April to late May) is the second-best time to attempt Himlung. As the weather gradually warms, the snow conditions on the mountain become more favorable, and the longer daylight hours provide more time for acclimatization and summit pushes. The landscape below Base Camp is vibrant with blooming alpine flowers, adding visual beauty to the climb. Although spring conditions are generally good, climbers should be cautious of unstable snow bridges and potential melting snow toward the end of May, which can increase avalanche risk on certain sections of the route.

Climbing during the monsoon season (June to early September) is strongly discouraged due to heavy rainfall, landslides on the approach trail, poor visibility, and unsafe trail and glacier conditions. Likewise, winter (late November to March) is not suitable for most climbers, as extreme cold, deep snow accumulation, and the potential for harsh storms make the ascent highly dangerous and logistically difficult.

In summary, the most favorable months to climb Himlung Himal are October, followed by late April to mid-May. These windows offer the best balance of stable weather, clear skies, and safer mountain conditions—critical factors for a successful and safe expedition.

The whole expedition takes more than  three weeks, with around 12 days of preparing at Base Camp and climbing.  This is not a climb for beginners. If you have Alpine PD+/ AD route experience (or have climbed Scottish Grade I/II winter routes) you will enjoy this climb confidently.

As mentioned, we expect that you have good mountaineering skills. For those with some experience, this is not an overly demanding climb, and our experienced climbing guides are there to assist as necessary. Nevertheless, you may wish to refresh yourself of these skills as there are some demanding and technical sections on the climb.

Being that Himlung is  7,126 m / 23,379 ft and that from Camp 2 you will be sleeping at altitudes over 6,000 m / 19,686 ft it would be preferable that you have experienced high altitude before.   It takes one week to trek into Base Camp.  That alone is good practice for the stress your body will undergo for the rest of the expedition, but please build on your general fitness before you come.

As an option for experienced climbers who wish to get more experience before climbing over 8,000m, this is a great mountain to practice on. 

While this is not Mount Everest, it is one of the 7-thousanders in Nepal.  That’s pretty high on the global scale!  You should be very fit and with a good level of stamina to complete this climb.

Stamina is required to complete the trek in, withstand camping at high altitude for two weeks, and then summit this awesome peak. 

We do trust that, if you are considering this climbing expedition, you do have a great level of fitness and know what you have to do to increase / build on it before you come.

• Yes, Himlung is among the 7-thousanders in Nepal. Best known not for its technical difficulty but for its remote location and stunning surrounding landscapes and scenery.
• Yes, you will need to have previous climbing experience for this expedition.
• Yes, our climbing guides are fully experienced.
• Yes, it will be a fully equipped Base Camp with all the necessary facilities.
• Yes, altitude related problems are real and are something to be aware of.  Our guides are also trained in dealing with altitude problems and our expedition takes in acclimatization days in order to mitigate the possibility of illness.  However, you should be aware that we never know who will suffer from mild to serious altitude sickness or when.
• Yes, we are ready if you require emergency evacuation while on this trip, the guide is knowledgeable about what to do in this situation. 
• Yes, you need insurance to cover you on this climb and it should cover helicopter evacuation should it be necessary.
• Yes, we insure all our staff in case of accidents/ illness among them.
• And, yes, it’s an awesome climb!

It is normal to have a minimum of two climbers for this expedition, for logistics and to obtain the permits.  If you are alone, but very interested in doing this expedition, please talk to us about that. 

Equipment

For the climbing part of the expedition, we will provide the group gear such as ropes, but you are expected to bring your climbing equipment.  Equipment is available for rent or to buy in Kathmandu and this is something we can advise you on.

Basic list of climbing equipment:  

• Trekking equipment (per our standard list)
• Climbing helmet
• Climbing boots
• Crampons
• Climbing harness
• Ascending device
• Descending device
• Ice axe
• Carabiners
• Prusik loop
• Tape sling
• Gloves
• Down jackets (can be hired in Kathmandu)
• Waterproof jackets and trousers
• Sunglasses
• Bring clothes that you can layer up as it will be extremely cold at higher altitudes but at lower elevations it will be warm.
• Pack light for carrying up and down the mountain!
• Portable solar panel (one which hooks onto your day pack) to recharge equipment.
• Headtorch with batteries and extra batteries.
• Medicines – any you take regularly plus items such as headache tablets, stomach tablets etc.  And a small first aid kit.
• Four-season sleeping bag.
• Toiletries in small, travel sized containers.
• Snacks such as dried nuts and fruit, chocolate bars and power bars.

This expedition is basically broken down into two sections: when you are trekking and staying in teahouses, and when you are climbing and staying in tents.

A day on the trekking trail:

Breakfast is taken at the teahouse you slept in. Departure is usually 8am. Typically you are walking for 5 to 6 hours a day in mainly dry landscapes.  If there are any small teashops on the trail you will eat  lunch there, otherwise a packed lunch will have been arranged by the teahouse you slept in.

On arrival at your next overnight teahouse, you can relax before and during dinner in a warm dining room before heading off early to bed.

A day on the climb:

At Base Camp staff will set up the tents – sleeping, dining, kitchen and toilet tents.

On an average day the chef will be busy preparing your meals while the climbing guide will be ensuring the equipment is in good condition and that you know exactly what to expect on the climb.

If you are acclimatizing, you can explore the neighbourhood and hike around a bit (don’t forget to tell the guide if you are heading off yourself). When you are climbing you will be paying close attention to the climbing guide’s advice.

On this expedition you will spend the majority of the time camping.

There will be a camp at Base Camp, 4,900 m /  16,076 ft  and you will be sleeping in tents at Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III at  5,450m /  17,880 ft,  6,000 m /  19,685 ft and 6,350 m /   20,833 ft, respectively.

Facilities such as tent, sleeping mat, separate communal toilet tent, dining tent and kitchen tent are included at Base Camp. 

While at Camp I, II, and III and while making the final push for the summit, packaged ready meals will be made available to you.  Otherwise, our fantastic camping chef will prepare breakfast, lunch, afternoon snack, and dinner.  Tea/ coffee and boiled drinking water are available as required.  You may want to bring some snacks from home –  a bit of comfort food.

Hot water for bucket showers is available at Base Camp.

At the higher camps, the food will be reconstituted dried food / ready-to-eat meals. 

• Breakfast may be porridge with freshly cooked flatbread / Nepali roti, or it may be dal bhat (that staple of Nepali diets).  
• Lunch and dinner can be pasta, noodles, Nepali vegetable curry and rice, pizza, dal soup, etc.  
• Snacks may consist of fried potatoes and popcorn.

We will carry some canned meat and tuna fish for protein.   If you have a particular preference, let us know and we will try to accommodate. Vegetarian food is always available.

Tea/ coffee/ hot water is unlimited at Base Camp.  There will be powdered milk and sugar for the tea/coffee.

We do not carry alcohol on an expedition as it is not recommended to drink at altitude.  We also do not carry soft drinks.  Both alcohol and soft drinks are too bulky to transport.

Dried fruit-flavored powders to add to water are available for sale in Kathmandu if you wish to purchase some.

Drinking Water While Camping and in Teahouses

At the camp sites, you will be provided with boiled water for drinking.    

In teahouses, you can use the tap water only after sterilizing it with drops or tablets.  The teahouses will charge you if you order boiled drinking water from them. A Lifestraw might be handy on the trail and at Base Camp.

The area where the expedition takes place, Manaslu district and the Nar Phu Valley,  is quite remote.  Although many trekkers come along through Manaslu as part of the Annapurna Circuit Trek, there are fewer going through the locations and settlements you pass through on the Himlung Expedition. 

This means that in general, the teahouses in this location are much more basic than, say, on the main Annapurna trekking routes.

Two beds (or a dormitory) are provided in the sleeping rooms.  Heating and attached bathrooms are not provided in the sleeping rooms.  Toilet facilities will be shared with other trekkers/ climbers and may be outside of the main building.  Hot showers are available, but you have to pay for them.

The dining room is the heart of the teahouses, where you can socialize as well as eat.  There will be some sort of heating there. 

Some teahouses may have WiFi access and charging points. Please note you will be expected to pay to use these.

Since you are going to be camping for a considerable time on this expedition, we do feel you will be able to cope with the basic facilities of a trekking teahouse for a few nights!

Typical Menus in Teahouses in the Himlung Area

Food is usually filling and plentiful, if the menu a little basic. Nepali, Tibetan, Chinese and a little Western food is available.  For example:-

Breakfast may consist of:

• Porridge
• Eggs
• Toast
• Tibetan bread
• Buckwheat pancakes
• Rice dishes
• Noodles dishes
• Tea/ coffee 

Dinner items may include:

• Soup
• Thukpa (Tibetan soup with flat noodles)
• Nepali Dal Bhat (vegetable curry and rice)
• Fried rice
• Noodles
• Momos (very popular Nepali steamed dumplings)
• Fried momos (similar to the steamed ones but fried)

Lunch: 

taken in a small eatery on the trail or be taken from the overnight teahouse.

Quite similar to the dinner items but with a more limited choice in some places.  If it’s a packed lunch it may be bread, boiled eggs, fried potatoes etc.

Drinks:

Soft drinks, beer and drinking water must be paid for directly to the teahouse. 

Tea and coffee are included in the breakfast and dinner. 

Nepali tea or Tibetan butter tea, when it is available, coffee. Nescafe or similar.

One of the main concerns is altitude related illness.  Science does not know why some suffer more than others.  Although we do know people like the Sherpas of the Khumbu area have – let’s call it – a gene – that enables them to live and work at high altitudes without any problem.

The rest of us need to take care to avoid altitude sickness by staying hydrated, not going too fast and taking acclimatization breaks.  By alerting your guide if you feel unwell, he can determine whether it is something related to altitude and needs to be taken very seriously, or something else.

The other safety concerns are accidents during the climb and getting lost on the mountain.

Do not go off alone.  Always tell the guide where you are going and when you expect to come back (in case you want to explore during acclimatization days). On the climb, pay close attention to the climbing guide.  You may be very experienced, but it is most likely he knows this particular mountain well.

Tips for Safety on the Expedition:

• Do not go off on your own at the rest/ overnight stops without telling your guide.
• Drink at least 4 liters of water per day to stay hydrated.
• Eat – we all know you need more calories when climbing at altitude than you do sitting at home.
• Do tell your guide if you feel unwell. Even an upset stomach can impact on the safety of the team when on the mountain. 
• Have the correct insurance.
• Wear the correct gear.
• Bring your own regular medicines and a medical kit.
• Pay attention to the guide in tricky or dangerous areas. In particular, listen to the climbing guide.

Climbing Permit  –  a climbing permit is required for any climb in Nepal.  These are issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).  Cost depends on the season, the peak, and team size.

Nar Phu Valley Permit – this is required as you will be passing through this area, albeit briefly.  USD100 per person per week from September to November and USD75 per person per week from  December to August.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit – you will be within the Annapurna Conservation Area, so you require a permit for that. USD25 per person for the duration of the trek. 

Note: We will organize all the permits for you. 

Why You Need These Permits

Climbing permits: A permit is required to climb any mountain in Nepal. 

Regulating climbing activities: climbing permits are required to allow the government to regulate climbing activities and ensure no one attempts to climb unprepared.  Permits must be issued through a registered Nepali company, such as Magical Nepal.

Protect the unique environment of the mountains and helps fund conservation efforts in the region.

For your own safety  – when you apply for the permit, the route you are planning to take is noted, helping if there is any need for search and rescue.

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit and Nar Phu Permit: The fees from these permits go towards the conservation efforts in these unique areas. 

This expedition can end either back in Kathmandu, or in Pokhara.

There are buses that run from Besisahar to Kathmandu (around 6-7 hours) or to Pokhara (around 4-5 hours).  As long as you inform us at the time of booking we can arrange for you to end your trip at either place.  Please note the guides and other team members will likely head on back to Kathmandu.   

What to do in Kathmandu: 

We can arrange sightseeing tours for you to many of the 7 UNESCO Heritage Sites and other places of interest.  Here are a few we can take you to or you can explore yourself.

• Pashupatinath (Hindu burning ghats)
• Boudhanath (Buddhist stupa and home to many Tibetan families)
• Swayambhunath (Buddhist  stupa also known as the Monkey Temple)
• Kathmandu Durbar Square (home to ancient palaces, temples and the Living Goddess)
• Patan Durbar Square (ancient palace and temples, smaller than Kathmandu Durbar Square)
• Shivapuri National Park (forest area just north of Kathmandu)
• Enjoy the many splendid restaurants to be found in Kathmandu
• Shop for souvenirs in Thamel and Durbar Marg
• Nightlife of Thamel

What to do in Pokhara:

• Hike to the Peace Stupa (for views of the lake)
• Davi’s Falls (waterfall)
• Mahendra Cave
• International Mountain Museum (history of mountaineering)
• Bundy jumping
• Zip lining
• Cable car ride (to Sarangkot for sunrise views)
• Boating on Fewa Lake
• Paragliding
• Partying all night long at some great music venues and nightclubs
• Wander along the lakeshore and dine in great restaurants

Your First Days in Nepal

If you would like us to meet you at the Tribhuvan International Airport and take you to your self-chosen hotel, please let us know. It will save you a lot of hassle at the airport trying to organize taxis.

Hotels in Kathmandu:

There are a wide range of hotels and hostels in Kathmandu to suit everyone.  We suggest Thamel as a great place to stay as it is the tourist hotspot with many restaurants, bars, shops etc.  You can check on booking.com and hostelworld.com for a suitable hotel.  If you would like to stay nearby Thamel, but not exactly in it, then hotels such as the Radisson, Kathmandu Marriott, and Shankar are all within about 15 minutes’ walk of Thamel. 

BTW – our office is also in Thamel.

Explore Kathmandu:

If you would like to see something of the city before (or after) your expedition, we have a half or full day tour that might suit you.  Just ask us.

Kathmandu is a very interesting city although it’s a bit of a maze if you are trying to locate places yourself.

Visa on Arrival 

Visa on arrival is available for people from most countries, via the Immigration Department of Nepal’s on-line site.   Complete the form, print it out and bring it with you.  Bring USD cash (exact money) to make payment on arrival at the airport. 

Visa on arrival is valid for 15 days, 30 days or 3 months and costs: 

• 15 Days – 30 USD
• 30 Days – 50 USD
• 90 Days – 125 USD

Landscapes: Leaving Kathmandu, you follow the Trisuli River until the turn off point to Besisahar. Once you start trekking the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges are above and around you, playing hide and seek as you pass through pine forests and along the Marsyangdi River.

There is plenty of evidence of Buddhist culture in this area.  Chortens, distant monasteries, and old ruined forts tell of a great history between Nepal and Tibet. 

Himlung itself is a beautiful mountain with vistas of surrounding peaks and glaciers.

Peoples:  In this area the people are mainly followers of Tibetan Buddhism.  There are remains of old Khampa forts and settlements which are testimony to people having come over from Kham in Tibet many centuries ago.  There is ancient and more recent history of trade along this salt route between Tibet, India and Nepal.

Wildlife: You might see small mammals  such as Himalayan Tahr (a wild goat), goral (another type of wild goat), pika (a rabbit like rodent), and Himalayan marmots as well as domesticated yaks and sheep.  Although there are larger mammals such as the wonderful snow leopard, it is highly unlikely to see these elusive creatures.   

For clients on a regular trekking trip, we advise them to bring a certain amount of local currency to spend in the teahouses, on the trail, and for any souvenirs they might find in the larger market towns. 

Not so for this climbing expedition.  Good luck finding an electrical charging port or someone selling handicrafts on the mountain!

But seriously, do bring a few rupees for those days you will be staying in teahouses as they charge for hot showers, charging equipment, and for WiFi access.  Plus, any soft or hard drinks, you consume.  Maybe bring around USD 12 a day on those days.

Tipping the guide and porters is also something you need to carry money for.  Although you can carry foreign currency for that purpose.  

What is Included and Not Included in the Cost of Your Expedition

Transport: Road transport from Kathmandu to the start of the expedition, and return.  This is most likely public transport.  Private jeeps can be hired, which may be a bit more comfortable, but you would need to divide the cost of that between climbers. Please discuss this with us

Climbing gear:   We will supply the basic group gear such as ropes.  It is expected that you will bring your climbing gear.  Should you not have your equipment, it can be hired when you arrive in Kathmandu.  Please discuss this with us. 

Accommodation: Tented accommodation is provided where indicated, and teahouse accommodation is also provided where indicated. In Kathmandu, we provide a hotel the night before the expedition, and the night after. 

Food: When you are camping you will get breakfast, lunch, dinner,  and afternoon snacks made by our chef.  In teahouses you will get dinner and breakfast in the teahouse.  Also included is lunch. Lunch may be a packed lunch or from a smaller establishment on the trail. Soft drinks etc that you purchase are to be paid by yourself.   

Tips: Tips for your guides and porters are not included in the trek.  Tips can be in Nepali rupees or other currencies.

Porters are hired to carry the camping equipment, they will also carry your gear.  Please keep your packs to the minimum weight so that it is not too much of a burden for them. 

Tipping the Guide and Porter

Porters will be hired to carry the camping and climbing equipment and as you can imagine, this is extremely hard work at these altitudes!   Your guide and/or  climbing guide are there to keep you safe and secure as well as fixing the ropes etc. Please show your appreciation for your porters and guides by tipping them.

Don’t forget the chef, without whom we would soon turn round and head for the nearest café!  100% of your tips go to the staff.  We do not deduct anything from these hard working, deserving people.

We suggest the following tips:

The guide /  climbing guide is usually tipped around $250 – $300 on this type of expedition.   This is divided by the number of climbers on the expedition. On top of this, the climbing guide normally receives a summit bonus from us directly. Extra incentive to give you the best climbing experience possible!

Porters should be tipped US150 each, divided by the number of climbers.

The chef should be tipped around US200, again divided by the number of clients on the expedition. 

Being generous is always appreciated, especially by the porters, whose work is more seasonal. If you are sharing a porter with another trekker, obviously that amount will be shared between the two of you. Do remember you are also helping to support the staff’s families and communities, particularly the porters who are usually from the area they are working in.  In this case, Manang.

While on the mountain, it is unlikely there will be any signal for phone or internet. 

In order to charge your equipment, we suggest you bring a portable solar panel. 

There will be WiFi and  electricity for charging in most of the teahouses you stay in. You will be expected to pay for that (around USD2-5 per time).